Via Ferratas in the Sexten Dolomites – Discover the TOP 5

Via Ferrata – The fast track to rock climbing

If you are looking for a change of pace from pure mountain hiking, but find climbing vertical walls a bit too risky, then via ferrata could be exactly what you're looking for.

Via ferratas are routes on steep rock faces that are made accessible even for "non-climbers" through the use of steel cables, ladders, iron rungs, and artificial footholds. Due to their nature, they are called "Vie Ferrate" (iron paths) in Italy.

In South Tyrol alone, around 300 diverse via ferratas await you – and of course, those in the Sexten Dolomites are particularly popular.

The Alpinisteig is considered one of the most beautiful via ferratas in the Dolomites. It was secured and made accessible during the First World War by the Italian mountain troops, the "Alpini." It is best known for a small, deep rock crevice in the "La Mitra" section, where the walls are very close together—a legendary photo spot. The Alpinisteig is divided into two sections: Elferturm/La Mitra (Difficulty Grade A) and Elferscharte/Sentinella Pass (Difficulty Grade A/B).

Tour Start: You can begin the tour in three ways: 1. Drive to Bad Moos and take the Rotwand cable car to the mountain station. 2. Drive through the Fiscalina Valley (Fischleintal) to the paid parking lot at the Fischleinboden Hut (also known as the Dolomitenhof). 3. Start from the Carducci Hut, which is open from mid-June to October and offers around 50 sleeping berths.

Route: The Alpinisteig can be tackled in various ways. The following routes are common for the three starting points:

1. Rotwand Cable Car Mountain Station
Elferscharte – Alpinisteig section Elferturm/La Mitra with the famous rock crevice – Zsigmondy Hut – Fischleinboden (Duration: approx. 7 hours)

2. Fischleinboden
Elferscharte – Alpinisteig section Elferturm/La Mitra with the famous rock crevice – Zsigmondy Hut – Fischleinboden (Duration: approx. 8 hours)

3. Carducci Hut
Alpinisteig section Elferturm/La Mitra with the famous rock crevice – Elferscharte – Alpinisteig section Elferscharte/Sentinella Pass – Sentinella Pass – Berti Hut (Duration: approx. 5 hours)

Located very close to the Alpinisteig is the Sexten Rotwand Via Ferrata, which offers an enjoyable ascent to the summit of the Rotwandspitze. It was established along the old front-line trails of the First World War. For this reason, you will repeatedly encounter relics from that era along the way, such as an old military fortification.

Tour Start: Just like the Alpinisteig, you can begin the tour to the Sexten Rotwand Via Ferrata either at the paid parking lot of the Fischleinboden Hut (also known as the Dolomitenhof) or at the mountain station of the Rotwand cable car.

Route: From both starting points, the path leads across the Rotwand Meadows to the mountain station of the Rotwandwiesen T-bar lift. From there, follow the signpost for "Klettersteig Rotwandspitz." The entrance is marked with a red dot on the rock. The via ferrata features four ladders, a chimney (a vertical crack in the rock), a basin (a hollow in the terrain), a gully (a long, narrow vertical indentation), a notch (a gap between peaks), and a stepped ascent. From the exit of the via ferrata, it is about another 60 meters of elevation gain to the summit cross. The descent follows the same via ferrata back to the mountain station of the Rotwand cable car.

The De Luca-Innerkofler Via Ferrata is a spectacular traverse of the Paternkofel. From the summit, you can enjoy an imposing view of the north faces of the Three Peaks (Drei Zinnen). Unfortunately, for this reason, the via ferrata is very popular and can be quite crowded during the high season. The original wartime path was named after a famous Dolomites climber. A special highlight is that the approach to the via ferrata leads through a pitch-dark tunnel system, for which you should definitely have a headlamp in your pack.

Tour Start: The starting point of the tour is the parking lot at the Auronzo Hut.

Route: From the parking lot, follow a wide gravel path to the Paternsattel (Patern Pass) and from there continue to the Drei Zinnen Hut. Shortly before reaching the hut, turn southeast toward the "Frankfurter Würstel" (Frankfurt Sausage) – this is the name of the rock pinnacle at the tunnel entrance. The tunnel is located on the north ridge of the Paternkofel. The entry point to the De Luca-Innerkofler Via Ferrata is at the end of the tunnel.

Experience a fantastic view of the Three Peaks

The via ferrata begins gently, with a steep short wall serving as the first major challenge up to the Gamsscharte (Gams Pass). From there, a steep wall section (Difficulty B/C) leads to a simple ledge, which you follow to the end of the secured sections. Afterwards, easy-to-follow tracks lead you toward the summit. Just before reaching your goal, however, you must complete a simple climbing section on a non-exposed part of the wall. Your reward is a fantastic view of the Three Peaks. The descent follows the same route back to the Auronzo Hut.

The Leiternsteig (Path of Ladders) truly lives up to its name, as 17 ladders await to take you up the almost vertical north face of the Toblinger Knoten to the summit. The Leiternsteig is also a relic from the First World War. At that time, the Austrian field chaplain Hosp had the path constructed to reach a lookout post on the summit that was shielded from the enemy. After the end of the Great War, the structure fell into ruin but was rebuilt in 1979.

Tour Start: The easiest tour for the Leiternsteig begins at the parking lot of the Auronzo Hut.

Route: From the Auronzo Hut, the path leads over the Paternsattel (Patern Pass) to the Drei Zinnen Hut. From there, continue past the Sextenerstein to a saddle, from which the first steel cables are visible to the east on the north face. The most difficult section of the Leiternsteig awaits you right near the beginning: you must overcome a steep chimney to reach the first ladder. After that, passages alternating between difficulty grades A and B follow, with the exception of one ladder in the upper part of the climb that can only be reached by stemming (Difficulty Grade C). Once you reach the summit, the descent takes place via the easier Feldkurat-Hosp-Steig (Difficulty A/B). Finally, the trail leads back to the Drei Zinnen Hut and the Auronzo Hut.

The Captain Bilgeri Memorial Via Ferrata is one of the most popular short via ferratas in the Dolomites, located below the summit of Monte Piano. Its alpine meadows were a heavily contested region during the First World War. In this area, there are many well-preserved or carefully restored wartime paths. For those interested in history, there is a special circular route along these trails that offers a profound impression of the military actions of that time.

Tour Start: The tour begins at the parking lot of the "Gasthof Dreizinnenblick" (Three Peaks View Inn) at Lake Landro (Dürrensee) near Dobbiaco.

Route: From the parking lot, follow a gravel path toward the Rienza Valley (Rienztal) until you can turn right onto path No. 6. A gravel riverbed leads you to the foot of Monte Piano. From there, you ascend in many secured switchbacks to a ledge with memorial crosses. This is where you find the junction for the Captain Bilgeri Memorial Via Ferrata. On the climb, several ledges and chimney sections await you. Just before the summit, you will need your full concentration for the stepped rocks before finally being rewarded with a breathtaking view.

The descent follows path No. 3 across the green plateau toward Monte Piana. Along the way, you will encounter numerous trenches and graves. Before reaching the summit of Monte Piana, turn right onto path 6a and descend via the so-called "Tourist Trail" into the valley until you reach the approach path.

To ensure your via ferrata tour in the Sexten Dolomites becomes an unforgettable and successful experience, we would like to share 5 essential tips with you.

1. Pay attention to your physical fitness

Even for via ferratas with a very low difficulty level, a good baseline of physical fitness and sufficient muscle strength are important. Furthermore, you should be very sure-footed. If you are planning a via ferrata tour for your holiday in the Sexten Dolomites, it is wise to prepare with a few training sessions at home. Focus primarily on training your core and arm muscles, as well as your endurance.

If you decide spontaneously to tackle a via ferrata while in the Dolomites, assess your physical fitness realistically and, if you are unsure, choose an easy route.

Tip: Overestimating your own abilities has no place in the mountains and can be fatal. It is better to choose easier routes to start with and gain your initial experience there.

3. Check your equipment

Before you set off for your chosen via ferrata, you should carefully check your equipment once more for completeness and proper functionality.

The following items are mandatory for via ferratas of difficulty grade C and above:

• Sturdy footwear (hiking/mountaineering boots)
• Climbing harness
• Via ferrata set (lanyard with shock absorber)
• Resting sling (short fix)
• Via ferrata gloves
• Climbing helmet
• Suitable outdoor clothing
• First-aid kit

Which shoes are best for via ferrata?

First and foremost, your footwear should be comfortable and fit you properly. When choosing your shoes, keep in mind that you have to manage the approach and descent in addition to the via ferrata itself. This means your shoes should handle scree, icy snowfields, and muddy or wet patches without issue. Therefore, a stiff, lugged sole is particularly important. It provides sufficient grip on the rock and prevents the iron rungs of the via ferrata from pressing through the sole. Whether you prefer a low, mid, or high-cut shaft is down to your personal preference.

Since strenuous via ferratas often involve very small footholds, some climbing guides suggest a second pair of profile-less shoes for the actual climb. However, problematic sections requiring good traction can occur even within the via ferrata. For this reason, a lightweight mountaineering boot with a high-grip lugged sole and a smooth "climbing zone" at the toe is the better choice for challenging routes.

Which climbing harness do you need for a via ferrata?

A climbing harness is indispensable for via ferrata. However, the question of whether a sit harness is sufficient, or if an additional chest harness or even a full-body harness should be used, is a matter of debate. In any case, prioritize low weight and volume, as you will be carrying the harness in your backpack during the approach and descent.

The sit harness (waist harness) is an absolute must for via ferrata. Adjustable leg loops allow for an individual fit. The rule of thumb is that the harness must not be constricting, yet it should not shift while climbing. It should be comfortably padded to ensure a pleasant ascent.

In addition to the sit harness, a chest harness is also advisable. Since you are always carrying a backpack on a via ferrata, your center of gravity is higher, increasing the risk of flipping backward during a steep climb. A chest harness must never be used alone and must be connected to the sit harness using a piece of tubular webbing.

A full-body harness (a combination harness that goes around both the hips and chest) is recommended for children and beginners. The downside is that full-body harnesses are often unpadded and can sometimes be less comfortable to wear.

What is a via ferrata set?

A via ferrata set is your safety line on the route. It is connected to your climbing harness via a loop and features two lanyard arms (webbing slings) attached to two carabiners. Using these carabiners, you continuously clip and unclip yourself from the steel cable throughout the tour. Ideally, the via ferrata set should have an integrated energy absorber (tearing webbing), which cushions the impact of a fall.

4. Know the alpine hazards

When you head into the mountains, you should be aware of alpine hazards to ensure you are adequately prepared. The most common danger is a sudden change in weather; therefore, a stable weather forecast is essential, especially for long via ferrata tours.

Thunderstorms occur frequently in the mountains and are life-threatening on a via ferrata, as the steel cables act as lightning rods. If you do get caught in a storm, leave the via ferrata as soon as possible and move about 15 meters away from the rock faces. Assume a crouching position under your bivy sack, sitting on your backpack with your feet kept together.

Rain and moisture also make the route more dangerous, as the iron rungs and cables become very slippery, making it difficult to maintain a grip. If there are earthy sections on the route, these soften when wet and also become a slipping hazard. Especially in canyon via ferratas, rain or spring glacier melt can have fatal consequences; swelling streams can submerge safety cables and prevent further progress.

Another danger in the mountains during any season is snow. Even late into the summer, you may encounter old snowfields that have their own pitfalls. Early in the morning, they are still frozen and can be impassable without crampons. By the afternoon, they have thawed and should be crossed with the necessary caution. If you attempt a via ferrata in winter, always keep an eye on snow accumulations on slopes and stay informed about the current avalanche situation for the approach and descent.

Regardless of the weather, rockfall is a constant danger. Mountaineers ahead of you, chamois, ibex, strong winds, or melting snow can trigger rockfalls. In the event of a rockfall, you must immediately leave the impact area. Since this is often impossible on a via ferrata, you should seek cover close to the wall or under an overhang.

Finally, at altitudes above 2,500 meters, there is a risk of altitude sickness—especially if the elevation gain is covered very quickly by car or cable car. Symptoms of altitude sickness include headaches, severe fatigue, and an increased resting heart rate. These lead to exhaustion, loss of sure-footedness, and poor decision-making. These factors can impact both the duration and the safety of a tour. Therefore, pay close attention to your body's signals on every tour and, if in doubt, decide to descend.

5. Act prudently on the via ferrata

First things first: Never head out on a via ferrata without a partner!
In principle, via ferratas can, of course, be climbed solo because the safety cables allow for easy self-belaying. Nevertheless, you should never do this, as in the event of an emergency, there would be no one there to provide medical care or first aid.